品牌商的活跃在股市也有引人注目的表现。据不完全统计，2011年或有近20家品牌服企登陆A 股市场，还将有近10家企业实现海外上市。不过，繁荣的背后依然危机四伏：如今年2 月在纽交所挂牌上市的中国休闲男装品牌“左岸服饰”首日开盘报7美元，与首次公开募股价持平，发行价远低于指导价格区间每股10.50-12.50美元。左岸服饰在中国休闲男装市场排名第二，市场占有率5.4%，但有点出人意料的是，“左岸服饰”首日该公司发行的600万股美国存托股票(ADS)，发行量也较预期低90万股。很显然，冷静的海外资本市场并不买“中国市场第二”的账。梦想中的追捧与现实中的冷遇，不由得让国内产业市场及资本市场在ODM的热议中沉默并进一步思考：中国服企品牌的转型之路，究竟该怎么走？
The transformation of apparel enterprise, a happy matter or a tragic?
In the beginning of 2011, the weird price trend of cotton brings chill to the industry. Originally, the industry was greatly affected by increasing cost and decreasing demand in recent years. When consumption level eventually started to pick up, but the pressure of factor cost is not eased off even a little; the profit level is still not acceptable, which brings heavy cloud to the production industry.
On the other hand, when up stream enterprise is struggled to survive, brand clothing market is showing a flourishing image: new brands keep coming out; the expansion of mature brands is going really well. ‘Rapid development’ has become the feature of brand owner in 2011. The gross profit of many enterprises has reached 40% or even higher. Suddenly, the strength of brand clothing enterprise is getting stronger. The transformation of OEM to ODM has once again become the focus of the industry.
The active brand owners also have outstanding performance in stock market. According to statistics, there is almost 20 brand clothing enterprises have listed in stock exchanges. There are also 10 enterprises will be listed overseas. However, it is still surrounded by danger. For example, ‘Zuo’an clothing’ listed in New York Stock Exchange in February, the first day open quotation was 7 US dollar, which is the same as the floating share price. And the issue price is a lot lower than guidance price of 10.50-12.50 US dollar. Zuoan ranked second in China man’s leisure wear market, with the market occupancy of 5.4%. Surprisingly, the amount of first day issue of Zuoan was 6 million shares, which are 900,000 shares shorter than expected. Obviously, the calm overseas capital market does not buy ‘the No.2 of China market. The dreaming admiration and cold shoulder in reality has made domestic industrial market and capital market silent and think: How can we walk the transformation road of China brand clothing enterprise?
春天已到，夏天还会远吗？2011春夏T台上，与往日的黯淡相比，设计师们将更多鲜艳甚至夺目的色彩及图案带入到服装上。都说女人的裙子越短表明经济环境越好，可这个夏天，设计师们偏就将及膝甚至及踝的长裙搬上了T台，街头上的时尚女士也早早意识到了这股时尚潮流，一时间长裙当道，而无论你用什么样的上衣来搭配长裙，都会走在时尚的最前沿。也许你认为长裙可能会在这个夏天抢尽风头，但不在区限于海魂衫的彩虹条纹装，将更多的色彩集于一身；草编的时尚饰品被奢侈品巨头们打造的份外亮眼……这个夏天到底谁会更加引人注目，那就看看本期“好设计”带来的夏日之风。What to wear to steal the scene this summer
Summer is just around the corner when spring came. In catwalks for spring and summer 2011, compare to the gloomy past, designers used more bright and eye catching colours and patterns to fashion. There is a saying that the short the skirt, the better the economy. But this summer, designers brought knee high and ankle deep long skirt to catwalk. Those trendy women on the street have also noticed the new fashion trend. Suddenly, long skirt is in. No matter what top you used to wear with the long skirt, you are walking at the up front of the fashion. Maybe you think long skirt will steal the scene in this summer, but sailor’s shirt with rainbow strips gathered more colour; and straw woven accessories have been made to catch people’s eyes by luxury goods tycoons……who will be the most eye catching thing this summer? Find out in our “Good Design” column.
The come back of “Good Material”
“Good Material” has come back from this issue. We will invite a famous designer in each issue, to introduce the fabrics they use when designing clothe. And the introduction of the fabrics will not be limited to data information provided by manufacturers. Designer will provide catwalk pictures where models wore the finished products. You will also find out the reason why they chose the fabrics. Also, each designer will bring the future fabrics trend for you.
How to effectively conduct TPM?
Following the improvement of mechanized and automation of the product, enterprises are more rely on their production equipments. Scientifically improve the comprehensive efficiency has become the most focused issues. Nowadays, enterprise does not just buy equipment; they started to independently maintain the equipment. Because of that, a special equipment protection system – TPM start to be popular within enterprises.
So, what does TPM mean to textile and clothing industry? What could it bring to the industry? Does TPM suit all textile enterprises? What is the importance and difficulty to promote TPM? Focused on the above questions, in this issue’s Smart Management column, we will have “How to effectively promote TPM in textile enterprise” to answer them. We interviewed Xiao Hui, who is the chief consultant in Shanghai Fuzhuo Management and Consultant Company as well as an apparel production management expert. He will give some useful ideas on how to successfully introduce and promote TPM system. We hope textile enterprises will find it useful.
Clothing IE Q&A
From October 2010, we started a new column “Clothing IE Q&A”. We hoped to widely collect IE technical issues you had during production, and seek the answer through industry experts. The column is very popular since it started.
In this issue, we are mainly focused on 13 questions including shoulder pads, technical of suits collar base, and our guest expert Yu Jianming will answer them for you. So, you are welcome to post and email us your questions about clothing IE, and we hope to help more people through our answers to you.
The “green” commitment of Chen Ling in coloured spun yarn market
Nowadays, as everyone is concerned about environment issue, the competition between enterprises is not only around product performance service quality, and promotion, it is more about the sense and action of environmental protection.
Since its establishment in 1993, Huafu has stand in the top front of innovation for yarn. It emphasized on environmental protection, fashion and scientific innovation of coloured spun yarn industry. It has developed into a leading environ-protection enterprise in the global industry. All these are inseparable from the principal of “environ-protection, fashion and science” of their leader Chen Ling. In the interview, Chen Ling mentioned, “environmental protection, reduce energy consumption will not only save cost for enterprise, it is also the choice and social responsibility of a energy saving and environmental friendly enterprise.
Let personal shopper learn “aesthetic” sales service
Customers normally pass many stylish clothing in just seconds when they shopping. Sometimes, no matter how beautiful your clothing product is, they won’t give it second glare, and this will make your product to be the “unrecognized beauty”. So, the warm and simple introduction of personal shopper will not only keep them from moving away, but also can help customers get to know their own needs and initiate their desire to buy.
Therefore, for a good sales person, you should provide the service from customer’s point of view; try to make yourself to be one of the customers and understand their psychological change. But, if you were asked to “sell the products from customer’s point of view”, will you do it?