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中国制衣
[ 刊物名称 ]:中国制衣
[ 国际刊号 ]:ISSN 1673-1425
[ 电    话 ]:010-85229061 010-85229253
[ 传    真 ]:010-85229082
[ 地    址 ]:北京东长安街12号259室
[ 邮    编 ]:100742
[ 联 系 人 ]:王小姐
[ 邮    件 ]:info@chinaapparel.com.cn
[ 网    址 ]:http://www.chinaapparel.com.cn

 
  主编寄语  
一些业内人士认为,2010年可能是一个“分水岭”。许多品牌都因为经济不景气而导致销售急剧下降,促使他们不得不重新考虑数字营销策略,并准备放手打算在网络上大干一场,以弥补之前的损失。像Valentino、Emilio Pucci以及Jil Sander这些牌子以前对网络销售一直持有怀疑的态度,但是现在却相反,这些牌子乐意在网上销售自己的产品,而且网上销售成功的例子大有人在,意大利Yoox为阿玛尼与华伦天奴等品牌运营网站,网上销售情况就很不错。美国Marc Jacobs时装公司也推出了网上商店,出售旗下的香水和配饰的产品。

Chanel一直坚持不在网上进行销售,公司的首席设计师Karl Lagerfeld曾经说过这是出于品牌保护的目的,他认为网络销售不能给予消费者在精品店中消费的体验,从而打破消费者原来对于奢侈品的感觉;而如今Chanel已经改变主意,正在着手建立一个电子商务平台。一开始,Chanel计划只在网站上出售香水,以后还有可能在网上销售眼镜以及配饰。

A number of industry insiders believe that 2010 might be a watershed year. Since many brands are seeing a sharp decline of their sales due to the recession, the change of their digital marketing strategies tops their agenda. To make up the previous loss, they are working out a big plan in the internet. For example, Valentino, Emilio Pucci, Jil Sander and other brands those had held the doubtful attitude towards internet sales, are now glad to sell their products online and have set lots of successful cases. The websites of the brands like Armani and Valentino which are operated by Yoox Group, an internet retailing partner from Italy, enjoy good sales. Marc Jacobs also opened its online shop for perfume and accessories.

Even Chanel which previously refused online sales for the protection of the brand image has changed. Although Karl Lagerfeld said the fact that online sales could not provide consumers with the same shopping experience as they got in the boutiques would lead to the damage of the consumers’ impressions on luxury brands, Chanel is building an e-commerce platform. It plans to sell perfume at first, and then eyewears and other accessories perhaps.
  精彩导读  
服企转型 该乐观还是悲观?
  2011年伊始,棉价的诡异走势就给行业来了一个透心凉的“倒春寒”。原本,纺织服装制造业近年来就一直饱受成本上升和需求萎缩的双重打击,好容易等到消费回暖,可要素成本的压力迟迟不见减缓,利润水平依然让人难以忍受,制造业一片阴霾。
  与之相反,在上游企业与夹缝中喘息求存的同时,品牌服装市场却呈现出一片欣欣向荣的景象:新品牌不断涌现,成熟品牌的品牌延伸也有声有色,“快速成长”成了品牌商2011年的集体特征,毛利率水平达到40%甚至更高水平的企业比比皆是。一时间,品牌服企的腰板空前的挺拔起来,OEM向ODM的转型理想再次成为行业议论的焦点。
  品牌商的活跃在股市也有引人注目的表现。据不完全统计,2011年或有近20家品牌服企登陆A 股市场,还将有近10家企业实现海外上市。不过,繁荣的背后依然危机四伏:如今年2 月在纽交所挂牌上市的中国休闲男装品牌“左岸服饰”首日开盘报7美元,与首次公开募股价持平,发行价远低于指导价格区间每股10.50-12.50美元。左岸服饰在中国休闲男装市场排名第二,市场占有率5.4%,但有点出人意料的是,“左岸服饰”首日该公司发行的600万股美国存托股票(ADS),发行量也较预期低90万股。很显然,冷静的海外资本市场并不买“中国市场第二”的账。梦想中的追捧与现实中的冷遇,不由得让国内产业市场及资本市场在ODM的热议中沉默并进一步思考:中国服企品牌的转型之路,究竟该怎么走?
The transformation of apparel enterprise, a happy matter or a tragic?
  In the beginning of 2011, the weird price trend of cotton brings chill to the industry. Originally, the industry was greatly affected by increasing cost and decreasing demand in recent years. When consumption level eventually started to pick up, but the pressure of factor cost is not eased off even a little; the profit level is still not acceptable, which brings heavy cloud to the production industry.
  On the other hand, when up stream enterprise is struggled to survive, brand clothing market is showing a flourishing image: new brands keep coming out; the expansion of mature brands is going really well. ‘Rapid development’ has become the feature of brand owner in 2011. The gross profit of many enterprises has reached 40% or even higher. Suddenly, the strength of brand clothing enterprise is getting stronger. The transformation of OEM to ODM has once again become the focus of the industry.
The active brand owners also have outstanding performance in stock market. According to statistics, there is almost 20 brand clothing enterprises have listed in stock exchanges. There are also 10 enterprises will be listed overseas. However, it is still surrounded by danger. For example, ‘Zuo’an clothing’ listed in New York Stock Exchange in February, the first day open quotation was 7 US dollar, which is the same as the floating share price. And the issue price is a lot lower than guidance price of 10.50-12.50 US dollar. Zuoan ranked second in China man’s leisure wear market, with the market occupancy of 5.4%. Surprisingly, the amount of first day issue of Zuoan was 6 million shares, which are 900,000 shares shorter than expected. Obviously, the calm overseas capital market does not buy ‘the No.2 of China market. The dreaming admiration and cold shoulder in reality has made domestic industrial market and capital market silent and think: How can we walk the transformation road of China brand clothing enterprise?

详细介绍
研发R&D


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这个夏天哪个款式最抢风头
春天已到,夏天还会远吗?2011春夏T台上,与往日的黯淡相比,设计师们将更多鲜艳甚至夺目的色彩及图案带入到服装上。都说女人的裙子越短表明经济环境越好,可这个夏天,设计师们偏就将及膝甚至及踝的长裙搬上了T台,街头上的时尚女士也早早意识到了这股时尚潮流,一时间长裙当道,而无论你用什么样的上衣来搭配长裙,都会走在时尚的最前沿。也许你认为长裙可能会在这个夏天抢尽风头,但不在区限于海魂衫的彩虹条纹装,将更多的色彩集于一身;草编的时尚饰品被奢侈品巨头们打造的份外亮眼……这个夏天到底谁会更加引人注目,那就看看本期“好设计”带来的夏日之风。What to wear to steal the scene this summer
Summer is just around the corner when spring came. In catwalks for spring and summer 2011, compare to the gloomy past, designers used more bright and eye catching colours and patterns to fashion. There is a saying that the short the skirt, the better the economy. But this summer, designers brought knee high and ankle deep long skirt to catwalk. Those trendy women on the street have also noticed the new fashion trend. Suddenly, long skirt is in. No matter what top you used to wear with the long skirt, you are walking at the up front of the fashion. Maybe you think long skirt will steal the scene in this summer, but sailor’s shirt with rainbow strips gathered more colour; and straw woven accessories have been made to catch people’s eyes by luxury goods tycoons……who will be the most eye catching thing this summer? Find out in our “Good Design” column.

“好材料”栏目重新亮相
从本期开始,“好材料”栏目将重新打造,我们每期将会请出一位重量级设计师,为您讲述他们在设计服装时所采用的面料,而面料的介绍也不再只是提供一些由面料厂家提供的数据资料,设计师将会提供模特所穿着成品的T台照,辅助介绍选用该款面料的理由,同时,每期出镜的设计师都会为您带来未来面料流行趋势。
The come back of “Good Material”
“Good Material” has come back from this issue. We will invite a famous designer in each issue, to introduce the fabrics they use when designing clothe. And the introduction of the fabrics will not be limited to data information provided by manufacturers. Designer will provide catwalk pictures where models wore the finished products. You will also find out the reason why they chose the fabrics. Also, each designer will bring the future fabrics trend for you.

生产Manufacture


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全员设备管理TPM如何有效落地?
  伴随机械化、自动化程度的日益提高,企业对设备的依赖也在日益提升,科学的提高设备综合效率成为了制造型企业非常关注的话题。如今,企业已不再是一味地购买设备,而是开始自主维护设备。也正是由此,从自主保全入手,专业保全并行的设备保障系统——TPM,成为了众多企业竞相追捧的对象。
  那么,TPM之于纺织服装业呢?它究竟能给纺织服装业带来什么?TPM适合所有的纺织服装企业吗?推行TPM,其重点及难点何在?又应如何确保整个TPM活动推行的成功?针对以上问题,本期聪明管理栏目,我们特推出《纺织服装业如何有效推进全员设备管理TPM?》专题,采访业内服装生产管理专家、上海复卓管理咨询公司首席顾问肖辉,给企业成功引入并推进全员设备管理TPM出谋划策,希望可以给广大纺织服装生产企业以借鉴。
How to effectively conduct TPM?
  Following the improvement of mechanized and automation of the product, enterprises are more rely on their production equipments. Scientifically improve the comprehensive efficiency has become the most focused issues. Nowadays, enterprise does not just buy equipment; they started to independently maintain the equipment. Because of that, a special equipment protection system – TPM start to be popular within enterprises.
  So, what does TPM mean to textile and clothing industry? What could it bring to the industry? Does TPM suit all textile enterprises? What is the importance and difficulty to promote TPM? Focused on the above questions, in this issue’s Smart Management column, we will have “How to effectively promote TPM in textile enterprise” to answer them. We interviewed Xiao Hui, who is the chief consultant in Shanghai Fuzhuo Management and Consultant Company as well as an apparel production management expert. He will give some useful ideas on how to successfully introduce and promote TPM system. We hope textile enterprises will find it useful.

服装IE问题,有问必答
  从2010年10月期开始,我们推出了一个全新子栏目《服装IE问题,有问必答》,初衷是通过广泛征集大家在生产实践中遇到的一些IE技术问题,通过业内专家来为大家寻求解答。自推出以来,深受广大读者欢迎。
  本期我们重点聚焦劈门、垫肩以及西服领的领底呢工艺等13个问题,由我刊特约IE专家于明建来为大家做出解答。在这里,我们也希望如果您有有关服装IE方面的疑惑可以来信或者来邮告诉我们,我们也希望可以通过对于您问题的解答,帮助到更多的人。
Clothing IE Q&A
  From October 2010, we started a new column “Clothing IE Q&A”. We hoped to widely collect IE technical issues you had during production, and seek the answer through industry experts. The column is very popular since it started.
  In this issue, we are mainly focused on 13 questions including shoulder pads, technical of suits collar base, and our guest expert Yu Jianming will answer them for you. So, you are welcome to post and email us your questions about clothing IE, and we hope to help more people through our answers to you.

市场Market


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色纺纱市场陈玲的“绿色”坚守
在环保意识日益深入人心的今天,企业之间的竞争已不再仅仅是围绕产品性能、服务品质、促销手段的竞争,而更是环保意识与环保行动的竞争。
自1993年创立以来,华孚一直站在纱线创新的最前沿,致力于推广色纺纱行业的环保、时尚和科技创新,目前已逐步发展成为全球色纺纱行业的龙头绿色环保企业。而这一切与其掌舵人陈玲的“用”环保、时尚、科技”缔造绿色华孚”的理念密不可分。谈及为何如此看重环保,陈玲表示,“倡导环保、降低能源消耗和企业的经济效益是密切相关的。今年以来,纺织行业面临一系列的成本上涨压力,实施环保生产,减少能源浪费和降低污染物排放不仅是为企业节约成本,而且也是建设资源节约型、环境友好型企业的必然选择和社会责任。”
The “green” commitment of Chen Ling in coloured spun yarn market
Nowadays, as everyone is concerned about environment issue, the competition between enterprises is not only around product performance service quality, and promotion, it is more about the sense and action of environmental protection.
Since its establishment in 1993, Huafu has stand in the top front of innovation for yarn. It emphasized on environmental protection, fashion and scientific innovation of coloured spun yarn industry. It has developed into a leading environ-protection enterprise in the global industry. All these are inseparable from the principal of “environ-protection, fashion and science” of their leader Chen Ling. In the interview, Chen Ling mentioned, “environmental protection, reduce energy consumption will not only save cost for enterprise, it is also the choice and social responsibility of a energy saving and environmental friendly enterprise.

让导购学会“美感”销售服务
顾客逛街浏览服装款式时可谓是“一目千款”,有时候你的服装款式再好看,顾客只是一扫而过那也是让你的服装商品“怀美不遇”。因此导购通过贴心而言简意赅的服装美感形容词描述,不但可以留住顾客的脚步,还可以帮助顾客快速分辨需求,激发购买欲望。
因此,想要做好销售,就要尝试把自己变成顾客,用顾客的角度和心理变化来提供销售服务,但如果真的让你“以顾客为出发点销售服装款式,你会吗?”
Let personal shopper learn “aesthetic” sales service
Customers normally pass many stylish clothing in just seconds when they shopping. Sometimes, no matter how beautiful your clothing product is, they won’t give it second glare, and this will make your product to be the “unrecognized beauty”. So, the warm and simple introduction of personal shopper will not only keep them from moving away, but also can help customers get to know their own needs and initiate their desire to buy.
Therefore, for a good sales person, you should provide the service from customer’s point of view; try to make yourself to be one of the customers and understand their psychological change. But, if you were asked to “sell the products from customer’s point of view”, will you do it?
  媒体介绍  
《中国制衣》是由中国纺织工业协会主管、中国纺织信息中心主办,面向全国发行的集权威性、专业性、可读性、实用性、指导性特点于一身的制衣行业月度期刊。

《中国制衣》凭借主办单位的行业背景、信息资源及人力资源优势,在短短四年里,构建了专业的编辑团队和市场团队,迅速占据中国服装业的主流媒体市场,成为行业内最具价值的专业媒体之一。

《中国制衣》读者主要定位于服装生产厂家及服装品牌商、销售商,广告客户大多为服装面辅料、生产设备及其它相关企业。《中国制衣》在为读者带来专业权威资讯的同时,积极促进了广告客户的市场推广。

《中国制衣》通过多种渠道发行,除邮局订阅、零售购买外,《中国制衣》积极与中国纺织工业协会各会员单位联系沟通,举办和参加各类展会、活动,通过赠阅等方式,发行范围几乎涵盖所有大中型服装企业。
  订阅方式  
订阅方式:邮发刊号:80-421 单价:每期28元 年价:336元
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